There are two pipes, the hot side and the cold side. Each has an inlet and an outlet. On teh cold side, the inlet is attached to the FMIC. On the hotside, the outlet is the oval end that is attached to the fmic. Hot Side: If you have 2k miles on your car then your a happy camper. If you have more miles, then chances are your hose has hardened and and its a lil more difficult to remove. 1. Loosten the two clamps. 2. On the inlet of the rubber hose you will want to use a large screw driver and use it to pry the rubber hose off. You can also loosten the plastic flap which will allow you better access to the fmic clamp. Take off the hose on the fmic section. 3. Install silicon on the fmic and tighten clamp. Place clamp hex at the 12 oclock position with the hex facing the passanger side to give you easier access to tighten it. 4. Install silicon with armoral on the inlet of the hot pipe, make sure its flushed with the pipe. This allows you to slip it over the black metal pipe that goes under the engine which comes off the turbos discharge. 5. Install the oval end of hotpipe into silicon on fmic. TIghten the clamp. 6. Align the pipe with the black pipe then slide the rubber hose off the inlet of the hotpipe and over the black pipe. TIghten clamps. Cold side: 1. Remove the upper and lower clamps. Pull the hose from the top, you now have a better postion to remove the temp sensor and TIP hose. 2. Save rubber hose, it cost $140 and is on national back order. Sell hose to some one needing it who crashed there car like some one I know. 3. From under the car, you want to size up the cold pipe. Check the fitment of the pipe. Though they are all made on the same jig, at times one will have to much material on the lower part. If its touching the slave cylinder, then remove a lil material on the inlet portion on the lower part. The hardpipe will not line up directly with the Trottle Body! We have to leave some space between the pipes and the throttle body in order to have movement in the pipe when the engine moves. Take the factory rubber and Temp sensor off the plastic hose. Place it in the hardpipe. Wet the rubber prior to inserting the sensor. As you install the sensor, spin it so it can go in easier. 4. Install the hump hose on the throttle body and install the clamp and tighten it down. Take a straight hose and apply some armoral to it and slide it over the FMIC discharge (pipe). Insert charge pipe into throttle body silicon and size it up to the fmic pipe. Slide silicon off the fmic and over the hardpipe and tighten it down. Make sure you have enough silicon over both pieces. Silicon is 3" in length so 1.5" on each pipe is ideal. 5. Tighten down the clamps. NOTES: If you want bling, you will need to spray a clear paint on the flanges. The pipe will not rust, its stainless. Greddy and HKS flanges are made out of mild steel so they will get a surface rust. So if you want bling bling for the show, spray a clear paint on it. If you have a greddy or HKS flange, take some pcv tape and apply it on the threads of the flanges then screw it in. Make sure the BOV discharge faces down so water wont sit on it. Install the flange with BOV prior to mounting the cold side, its easier. Clean the inside of the hardpipes. They tend to have oil from the mandrel bending proces which attracts metal filing. You can use degreaser. Your clutch feels chattery after the install. Make sure your mounts are not broken or your bolts to the mounts are not broken. This allows excessive movement and causes the slave cylinder to come in contact with the hardpipe. If you need to, remove a little bit of material from the lower part of the pipe where it meets the intercooler. Some intercoolers are made where the discharge pipe is longer than others, especialy on aftermarket intercoolers! DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE SUPPLIED AWAB CLAMPS! These are aircrafth grade clamps and they dont back off, so dont overtighten them or they will fail! |